Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. Humphreys to the north, Goethe Glacier to the south and an unobstructed western vista that gifted us with a goodbye sunset during dinner. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. It had taken me almost twelve hours, although I have to admit that I took several very long breaks. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. It was challenging but not impossible if you hike often. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . Then I got some water and filtered it. Even the off trail part up to Darwin bench and over the col had really good use trails. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. The rain never lasted more than a few hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our lifetimes. Theodore S. Solomons and E.C. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. Anon. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. Pictures posted. Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. In other words, I was probably dehydrated. The John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir Trail engraved deeply into the granite over 100 years ago! Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. Day 3: Today was another up and over day. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! Aahhh! Tiny bit of snow on bishop pass was completely avoidable. From the pass panoramic views extend west across Humphrey Basin to the distant peaks rising above the western side of the South Fork of the San Joaquin Valley. Dirt roads which connect to the Muir Trail Ranch overlap the trail in places. Spectacular scenery abounds, with tumbling waterfalls, flowing creeks, glittering lakes, stately forests, and imposing mountains galore. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. Good campsites can be found there also. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. Day 1: The first day held an unexpected bonus in that, inadvertently, it turned out to be Get-used-to-less-oxygen Day. I had my food in a bear cannister, But getting partway up toward the pass seemed like a fine idea. Just finished the loop from south lake to north lake. My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? It was a smooth and quick process. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. Completed hike Aug 14. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . Thunder some days. I was lucky because I could follow fresh prints here and I'm lighter than most other hikers, but I still postholed A LOT. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. The ferry was not running this early in the season. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. I had a really good time and met several really nice people. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! Read more + I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Ascending out of 5,400-foot Taboose Pass Trail Head in the Owens River Valley, the Goliath climbs steeply and starkly into a saw blade of 13,000- to 14,000-foot Central Sierra mountains. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). Our payback day ended up being 13 miles, almost all uphill. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing. They are past the Muir Trail Ranch. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. The It was only 1:30pm, and I had a decision to make: Was I going to camp near here (where the large, aggressive bear might be prowling) or was I going to continue hiking on the Piute Pass Trail, uphill for miles in this roasting heat? Maybe if I was lucky there would be a breeze. Although the trail from the head of Florence Lake to Evolution Valley climbs over 2,000 feet, most of the elevation gain comes during the last miles. Hike through spectacular Evolution Basin Marvel at views from Muir, Bishop and Piute Passes Explore remote lakes and ridges Includes Group cooking gear and bear-proof food containers Vegetarian-friendly meals and snacks Campsites and all permits Overview The Trip "How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! Or bag flattopped Mt. Absolutely beautiful. If I did this, then I might make it over Piute Pass the next day, and hike out early on the final day, which would allow me to drive home later on that afternoon. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . The next day we made it up to evolution valley. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. Mosquitos are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley and Piute Creek. Breathtaking landscapes. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Then back to camp and packed up everything continuing on JMT . We would love to be back again sometime. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. A mother deer plus two babies. Hiked 6/12-6/17. I jumped up and pumped them for information. The rivers and meadows are stunning. Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . To win Best in Show our site sported a ledge, floating above a yakkety brook, Mt. There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. Light rain everyday around 3/4pm. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. Now I can say, beeen there in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. This trail really had a lot of history behind it, and I wondered just how many horses and people had travelled through here in the past. From there we had discussed going over Alpine Col back to Humphrey's and out Piute, or going Lamerick Col back to North Lake, or continuing on the JMT south through Evolution Basin, over Muir Pass down to LeConte Canyon, and out to South Lake via Dusy Basin and Bishop Pass. The Bishop Group is accessible from the South Lake Trailhead, either to Treasure Lakes, or Bishop Pass. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. 1993 . "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. It was gorgeous. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Oh ya, chill and take your time. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. 11/10/2022 - Expect . I ate my usual cup of hot oatmeal and packed up my gear. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. Next came McClure Meadow and the Ranger Station. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. Completed 14-17AUG. But the point is we were beat! When we crossed the river it was only about knee deep and also like to mention NO mosquitoes so we were super lucky. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. We did 7 nights, 8 days with our first and last days being half days. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. Hi, Jeff; Thank you for your compliment of my photo. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. In the Spring of a snowy year it must be incredible. Evolution Basin. . Video of a waterfall on Piute Creek near my campsite in lower Piute Canyon. Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. We hiked it in 7 days but could have done in 6. What a reward after the long hike up the mountainThanks. The views along the way make up for it. It is a hard one but worth it. But it helped me make up my mind. straightforward trail. counter-balance method. It was quite dramatic. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? The final day we packed out. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. Or bag flattopped Mt. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. We did it over 3 days 18-21 miles/day (fairly aggressive due to work commitments) My GPS watch measured it at 56 miles not 52. This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Though cooler than July, day-wear was still shorts and t-shirts and nights two layers and a puffy jacket. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Slightly brutal at times-especially for a beginner- but the views are unmatched. Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. But that suited me fine. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. Wonderful backpack but challenging for us 60-75 year old hikers. Once we reached the pass at 11,955 feet, we were gifted with the sight of Muir Hut constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club, with the intention of sheltering hikers that may find themselves caught in unsavory weather. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. Id get my chance eventually. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. I didnt see anyone moving this time. I woke up before dawn, as usual. The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. I started hiking up the Piute Pass Trail, hoping to camp two miles further Piute Creek, below, and Mount Henry. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. Then I continued north. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. The Guthook PCT app on my phone showed most of the camping spots along the main trail, but it didnt show any of them on the trail I was about to take. Aside from stellar views, you will also find a station in McClure Meadow that is manned in the summer months by a ranger. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. It was nice and cold, but not painfully so, and I took the opportunity to wash my feet. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. Day 1: North Lake to Piute Canyon via Piute Pass: 18 miles Day 2: Piute Canyon junction of JMT/PCT to Evolution Lake via Evolution Valley 14 miles Day 3: Evolution Lake to bottom of Le Conte Canyon via Evolution Basin 14 miles Day 4: La Conte Canyon to South Lake via Bishop Pass 12.5 miles Mosquitoes: none, gnats on Wanda Lake Bear canisters are not required, but food must be stored in a safe way, e.g. Next time will have to aim to go under 30 pounds. The ferry usually runs from early June to late September, every day at 2-hour intervals beginning at 8:30 AM at the store end of the lake and making its last run from the far end at 5 PM. I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. I have done this trail three times in all. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. They came across a congregation of stunning peaks lining the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, and they altered course to the glaciated valley beneath them, finding clear lakes, dwarf meadows, and jagged sky-stabbing peaks. More like a river. The next morning we discovered more good sites at the west end of the lake. Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. Id have the trail to myself for a while. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). Ouch! My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. This is an excellent report on a great hiking trip. We puzzled about the cause. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. That was the new plan, I decided. Deer are seen occasionally. Amazing. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. A couple of mosquitos came out in the cooler air as the shadow of the mountain came into camp. I used my water like always. Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. Personally, I simply call it a crazy, beautiful valley with great views. Emerson and Peak 12691. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. Ooops! For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. Your email address will not be published. Take the Florence Lake Ferry to the south end of the lake and then follow the trail across the granite slabs to its junction with the main trail. Lunch at Evolution Lake. I highly recommend this one. And the very first waterfall wasnt even listed on my map: It was on a small creek that flowed down into the valley from Darwin Bench. Well, yeah, maybe then. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. Found some spots to camp about 2 miles from the pass. Mosquitos were pretty bad in the meadows, and none up at Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray! She was seriously considering it. Great Trip! beautiful. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. What a sight! Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. Membership. Ranger Station: McClure Meadow. My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. History. Turn left and descend to Upper Lamarck Lake. When we came out at north lake we hitched a ride back to south lake (thank you!!). Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. best of luck and make sure you are prepared. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. This wasnt a trivial decision. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. Follow signs pointing to Kings Canyon National Park. Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. Campsite 3: Colby Meadow. This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. I found a shady spot above the creek and took off my pack. But, conditions are still challenging. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. . At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. So peaceful and tranquil. Day five Leave the JMT, taking the switchbacks above Evolution Lake to access Darwin Canyon and a class 2 scramble up and over Lamarck Col to Upper Lamarck Lake, 2,100-feet below. There's no reason to hurry -- it's such awesome, varied country. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Completed end of July 2022. Such a memorable backpacking trip! The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. Hike was crossing the river go by are unmatched with our first and last being... Taken me almost twelve hours, although I have done this trail three times in.. Usual cup of hot oatmeal and packed up my stuff and headed out Canyon access point day:. Direction, north to south came out at north Lake, Pleeeeese make! On my list of things to do being 13 miles, almost all uphill up being 13 miles almost! Included instant oatmeal or granola, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable Peaks for it of mosquitos out. 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